SOMARTA at Tokyo Fashion Week Spring 2013

When Lady Gaga stepped out onto the stage in 2010 wearing a crystal laden graphic cat-suit and heel-less wedges that would make any shoe fanatic do a double take, the world was dying to know who she was weaing. Tamae Hirokawa.the designer behind this embroidered wonders of the fashion world, has since then taken her already acclaimed brand, Somarta to new levels, breaking boundaries with each show she send down the runway. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that Somarta is yet again one of the highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week. For SS2013 Hirokawa takes the viewer on a journey through a secret, art nouveao garden throughout which the designer's signature textured tights ground each look. Although the collection strayed away from the multi-layered crystal embroidery of the cat-suit era, there was definitely np lack in sparkle, opulence, or luxury.

Modeling a whimsical, embroidered jacket, an Ultra-feminine pearl necklace, and a waist synching belt, the first of 37 lovely looks makes its way down the minimal runway. A plethora of variation on the shift and baby-doll dresses unify the collection, but Tamae Hirokawa's flawless attention to detail sustains our interest as unique patterns and textures capture the eye. A panel of art nouveao embroidery in ivory enhances a silk shift in eggshell blue while a structured, neckpiece of white silk leaves juxtaposes the ultra-fem, simple shape completing the look. And just when we thought the lace trend was on its way out, Hirokawa glorifies the timelessness of its texture and beauty through delicate shorts layered under graphic silk blouses and structured jackets. As the looks develop out of soft pastels and embroidered Capri pants into deep, royal blues, mossy greens, and boldly ornate patterns, the collection takes an imaginative twist into a deeper land of botanical fantasy. Nymph-like silk robes are laden with nouveao, imagery, which continues down into the ever-uniquely textured trademark tights. Everything in the collection seemed to breathe with a contemporary yet regal airiness, a theme which came to life in one mesmerizing look created with shimmering strips of electric blue silk chiffon.